Girl in the Kitchen: How a Top Chef Cooks, Thinks, Shops, Eats & Drinks by Dan Goldberg; Heather Shouse; Stephanie Izard

Author:Dan Goldberg; Heather Shouse; Stephanie Izard
Language: eng
Format: mobi
ISBN: 0811874478
Publisher: Chronicle Books
Published: 2011-10-05T00:00:00+00:00

If the only Chardonnays you’ve ever tried are from California, you won’t even recognize French Chardonnays as siblings. Commonly called “White Burgundy,” the Chardonnay from the Burgundy region can be beautifully rounded but still have good brightness, exactly like this watercress sauce.

GNOCCHI IN SIMPLE BROWN BUTTER-CAPER SAUCE

SERVES 4 AS AN ENTRÉ, 8 AS AN APPETIZER

Oh, gnocchi. It’s one of the simplest foods to make as far as ingredients go, yet one of the hardest things to master. I’ve been making gnocchi for years, for many different chefs and for myself, and though this recipe can result in beautifully pillowy gnocchi, it’s still not foolproof. Now, I’m not trying to scare you off from giving it a try, I’m just being honest in telling you that even chefs have trouble from time to time with gnocchi. For example, when I was working at Spring, every day I would get all of my other prep completed, put my potatoes in the oven, and go sit down with the crew for family meal, thinking about the gnocchi while I was eating, just hoping that it would be a good gnocchi day. One day I would create absolutely perfect little potato dumplings, and the next day they would fall apart in the water or be overly sticky.

Over time I learned that Russet potatoes work better at producing the fluffy texture you want for gnocchi and that it’s important to work with hot potatoes because they get really gummy as the starches cool. I also developed a method to cook them, ice them down, then brown them in a pan with butter so they get nice, crisp edges. This recipe is the result of all of my trial and errors with this finicky little dumpling, but don’t get down on yourself if you don’t nail it the first time around—the brown butter-caper sauce is so good it should make up for a little flaw here and there.

GNOCCHI

2 pounds Russet potatoes

1½ cups all-purpose flour,

½ cup ground Parmesan cheese

2 large eggs

3 teaspoons salt

Olive oil for tossing

BROWN BUTTER-CAPER SAUCE

1 cup unsalted cold butter, cubed

1 cup caper berries, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons finely julienned Preserved Lemon

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

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